Last week saw us buzing along in our tiny hired Spark, across the Panonian Plain with our trusty translator. Destination, village factories, to encourage our producers. We really have learnt all there is for a lay person to know about making Kotlich. We saw the guy holding the Kotlich with giant pincers and dipping it into the "frit". We saw them hanging up to dry and going in and out of the Kiln. 800 degrees and when the wrack of maybe 12 Kotlich slide out of the kiln after about 5 minutes, they look like red glass, transparent and glowing. It is a sort of magic that turns a dull grey dry mixture into a beautiful shiny unique enamel Kotlich.Having seen this process for the second time and spent the morning watching people who have spent a long time practiicing their particular part of the process, I am more in awe of the Kotlich than ever. One person has been perfecting that straight line around the rim of the Kotlich for years, another mans the strange spinning shaking proceedure that disperses the "frit" inside and makes that wonderful finish. Yet another, hand welds the small plates either side and attaches the metal handle. It really is a work of art, a true artisan product.No wonder each one is different and often bares the marks of the pincers. We notice that the fire pit and grill are more prone to this. But still we remember the Shandor or Zoltan or maybe Jozef who has made these so carefully.